hello Gil, 1st off let me say great video about neck resets. I watched it a few times and learned a lot. I can honestly say that will help me when i see these guitars all the time around here in South Dakota for sale. The measurement at 12th fret is 3 dimes a a slight bit of play. can not get a 4th dime in it. but i have a question about this also based on your video. with this being a resonator the bridge saddle is really high in the middle of the resonator cone, does it still measure the same as a standard style guitar? or is the center of a resonator cone going to be in the same position, or distance from top of the next? thanks Ric

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Hi Ric; Thanks for looking at the video and glad it helped.The geometry of a resonator is quite different from a typical flat top guitar. The height of the bridge is important to provide the correct amount of down pressure on the cone. A resonator is very mechanical and everything must be just so in order for it to perform. Not enough down pressure and it gets weak and rattley. So shaving down the saddle to get lower string height is a bad idea. 3+ dimes of clearance at the 12th fret, says "neck reset" no matter what the bridge height. Some would say "it is fine as a slide guitar, because the string height doesn't matter as much for slide" and that is true, sort of. The problem is that players want to use a slide, but they often also want the action (string height) to be fret-able too. For a guitar that is slide-only, a player would choose a square-neck dobro guitar, and would play it laid down flat (hawaiian style) usually for bluegrass. So this one is like many old stringed instruments.. a cool thing, but the cost to fix is about as much as the value of the instrument. The guitar is a K90 (natural top vs. mahogany). Here is one that sold, including shipping, for $650. That is AFTER neck reset and frets (about $700 worth of work) http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/ showthread.php?t=396883 The resonator was invented by John Dopyera (later formed Dobro with his brothers "Do-bro") in 1927, and the National company was founded on that invention. The original guitars were tricone and nickel plated steel and cost $100. Then the depression hit. The single cone wood body guitar was then invented so that National could sell instruments more cheaply. A wood body national was about $25. The knock offs like Kay (who actually built many bodies for dobro and national) were even cheaper. They were all just plywood shells that were "speaker cabinets" for cones. The tops were not meant to vibrate like typical acoustic guitars, and they were not made for the long haul. No reenforcing rods were used, so the necks often need to be straightened (with heat) as well as the neck angle reset. That's alot of work for a low-value instrument. -Gil

Hi; I have a National tricone guitar that I will be selling. I got it at a thrift shop this weekend, so I don't know much about it. It has a serial number around 0700. I was planning on putting it on Craigslist this weekend...then saw your ad and decided to contact you first to see if you had any interest. I did see one that sold on ebay for $5000. -Mark

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Hi Mark. Yes, I like those. I have 1266 and have had others. The earliest ones are not quite as desirable as those from slightly later. Does yours have a wooden interior tray holding the cones? Is the back of the body flat or arched? I think your serial number is probably late enough that it is a factory-made vs. hand-made guitar, and in the case of Nationals, factory-made is better. These are super cool instruments but they nearly always need work. I assume yours is a round neck? Those are the only ones I play and the only ones worth decent money. Here is the test for neck straightness: push down on the heaviest string at the 1st fret and at the 12th fret. That string is now your straight edge. Eyeball the area around the 6th fret. Is there a gap there between the bottom of the string and the top of the 6th fret? It should be less than a 32nd. These are very mechanical instruments. When the geometry is out, they do not nearly sound their best. There is a small audience for these and most who want one have one, but I'd be interested in a second one if it is in good shape and the price reflects the near certainty that neck straightening and a neck reset is in the cards. Other questions; Does it have an original case? Has it had work done or replaced cones? Where are you located? I went and looked at the ebay sale you mentioned. I will say that on the surface that seems like the guitar fetched a lot of money, but it had low string height (so presumably already had a neck reset), excellent condition without corrosion or dents, original case, etc. BUT, it is ebay so you never know what the real story is, and you don't know if the instrument will get returned, if a partial refund will eventually get issued due to undisclosed issues, or if the buyer is actually happy with what he got. With ebay, there's always SOMETHING and it is never good. And also there is always the 10% fees that take a piece out of the sale as well. Anyone really buying a guitar sight-unseen for that much is banking on the idea that it doesn't need any work, and they ALL need work. On ebay the sellers don't disclose the issues and the buyers have unrealistic ideas that the instruments are issue-free. That's been my experience and I've been disappointed many times and no longer go there when I can help myself. I got my tricone for $2600 a few years ago. It is all original and did not need any work because it had been left under a bed for years with no string tension. Original case. That was a good deal, and that's why I bought it. I love old instruments but I have to be sane about it or my wife would kill me. Typically, these need at least $700 worth of work, as standard operating procedure. Guys who fix guitars are expensive. I wish I knew how to do it myself. Again, I'd like to see photos. Good thrift shop score though! -Gil

Hi Mark thanks for the shots and your perspective. The tricone was invented in 1927 for the main purpose of making the guitar louder, since there was no such thing as an electric guitar, amp or pickup at the time. It was very successful until the advent of amplification. The deathblow to National was WWII, where steel became hard to get. My point is that there should not be a pickup on this guitar! And the big issue with this particular pickup is that it has been screwed into the top in at least 3 places. That will leave at least 3 holes when it is taken off. Those holes detract tremendously from the value, as the originality and visual aesthetic will both be compromised. As opposed to the neck angle and geometry which can be corrected, for a price, the holes cannot be. (The dents, which are not unexpected, cannot be fixed either). In your experience I'm sure that you've had items with "stories", where something about them has to be explained again and again. I'm afraid that the holes give this guitar a permanent black eye in this respect. Whoever buys it will always have those holes to try to ignore or explain away. So, I think that you may want to try to sell it by the means you mention and see how it goes. I think it will not be easy. The guy I use for restoration on these is the best in the country and could have it playing and sounding its best for about $700, but he won't be able to fix the holes. I think it would be about a $1500 item for me. All that said, PLEASE keep me in mind for future vintage instruments you come across. Yes, I am picky and price conscious, but I am also honest, knowledgable and an actual player vs. just a buy & sell guy. -Gil

Hi Gil Yes...I knew that the pickup would be and issue to a collector and purist. Fortunately, it is only screwed onto the cover plate, not to the body of the instrument. I will be replacing the cover plate prior to sale, and putting that into the description when I sell it....in whatever venue. I believe in telling the buyer all that I know is pertinent. Although I have yet to settle on a price for the guitar, it will be substantially more than you mentioned. My buyer more than likely will be a millennial who wants instant gratification, and once hears the price will just buy it. I have made many sales like that in many categories, after which those who in fact were experts, were truly shocked at the results I achieved. It might not even be purchased to play....but as a decorative element to someone who admires it for it's design. People in Southern California have more money than sense...that's why I sell down there. I really appreciate reading your expertise concerning guitars. I would like to ask you how to clean the surface of this guitar. I will be taking the strings off and will try to polish the entire metal portion of the instrument at that time. Any suggestions? Anything I should avoid doing? -Mark

Mark; I hadn't even thought of replacing the cover plate. I would be skeptical of a new one from National Resophonic fitting perfectly, or whether they sell them at all, but that is an interesting idea. It must be nickel plated if the patina is to match at all and it won't come cheap. National are good to deal with and I hope that works out. If it ends up being a good fit, please get back in touch and I could offer more $. As for cleaning, it can't be anything abrasive and you'll be surprised at how much of the tarnish will NOT come off. It is often a chemical reaction, not dirt. Hagerty 100 All Metal Polish seems to do magic in some instances. Considering that the holes are two vs. three and that they don't look terrible (though certainly not good), considering it will need at least $700 to get it back to as good as it can be, considering it does not have the original, or any, case (Cases can be found but cost money, and proper vintage cases (I think I may have two) cost a lot more), considering the dents and corrosion and partial headstock decal... I'd still like to take it on. I offered $1500. I hereby bump that to $2000. You can hold out for "millennial" money, but I will say that the market overall for vintage guitars has turned in the last year or two. The boomers with the large collections are now selling, not buying. So the market is becoming glutted and there is downward pressure on prices. A sought-after guitar in excellent condition will always have a buyer, eventually, but this tricone is not in excellent condition and the audience for them is small in the first place. The average bear is not going to know what to do with this guitar in terms of getting it playable and there aren't many folks just putting up trophy wall-hangers anymore (and if they are, they are usually mint condition Les Paul reissues-- the Beenie Babies of the instrument world) So does $2k grab you? Thanks for considering. -Gil

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Hi Gil I'm happy to let you know that after thinking it over, I've decided to accept your offer of $2,000. I was looking to get more...but as I told you...I've never been one to try to get the last dollar out of an item. When it's all refurbished I'd love to see a video of you playing it so I can hear what that instrument should sound like. I will keep you posted concerning future stringed instruments I might run across. Mark

Gil, I have a 1940 Martin 000-28 guitar. The side is cracked in a major way and it has been played heavily here in Hawaii by my grandfather. I inherited it and am looking for someone who will fix it up and love it. I have attached a few more photos; I was able to take some shots of the bridgeplate from the inside of the guitar. I don't know know if the neck needs a reset, but hope the photo helps. Can you tell me how to go about answering your questions about the guitar's condition? I am no expert. Aloha! David

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David, thanks; what is the serial num? Knowing the exact year has a big impact in the '30s and 40's eras. Has anyone looked inside with a mirror to see if the bridgeplate (under the bridge on the inside) is original and in ok shape? I have a camera that is small enough to get into the soundhole with the strings really loose (or even better with the strings off), then I aim at the underside of the bridge, with a flash (or I just stick a light inside the guitar) and it often comes out pretty well. Both ends of the bridge plate should be "tucked" into little slots in the main X braces. That is hard to see/capture with a camera, but please give it a try. My bet is that the bridge plate is original, since the bridge is original (they were often replaced in tandem) But I also bet that the balls of the strings will have worn deeply into the plate. The plate is the maple strip where the ends of the plastic pins that hold the string balls in come through. The photos you sent show red string windings coming all the way up to the bridge saddle, which says the plate (where the string balls sit) is probably worn through on the lower string holes. Bridgeplate wear is something that can be dealt with, but it is nice to know what the condition of the thing is before we make a deal. On the other hand, if the bridgeplate is replaced (fairly common) that is bad news, as that is one of the places where the "rubber meets the road" on a guitar. In other words that is one spot where the string vibrations are translated into the top. There is lots of "nitpicking" that can be done, and us Martin guys are champions at it, so sorry about that. The side crack is pretty gnarly, but I have a guy who could 'disappear' it, for a pretty penny. Repair guys can more easily hide crack repairs in the crazy grain lines of Brazilian rosewood. The top wear cannot be repaired, and is a permanent part of the guitar's history. It is good that it has been played a lot as that helps the sound. Do you know if it has had a neck reset? They pretty much all need them after 25 years, so if it hasn't been done, she is due... I'm attaching a photo showing the string height with dimes on the 12th fret. There is a video about how to measure the neck angle and string height on the website. Do you have any photos of your grandad, especially of him playing the guitar? The history and "provenance" is something I'm really into, and like to keep mementos of past owners with their instruments. Thanks David, I'm very interested in it, for sure. cheers! -Gil

Hello, I came across your website while doing research on how to estimate the value of a banjo. I inherited a Vega plectrum banjo that my grandfather used to play professionally. It has been sitting in storage ever since and needs to be played by some one who could appreciated it. If it is worth something the money would be best served by going into my daughter's college fund. I have attached some pictures of the instrument. Any information you could provide would be appreciated. Thank you. -Eric

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Hi Eric. I am somewhat familiar with the Vega Vox banjo. (Since I can play a little bit of 4 string banjo, I took a flyer and bought one quite like yours for $350 last Sunday... I have not even had a chance to change the strings and see how it sounds!) Yours dates to 1956. This date coincides with the beginning of the mini 'folk boom' in music, which for 20 years or so rekindled interest in the 4-string banjo. Bands like the Weavers were responsible for this. Primarily, I am interested in older banjos, pre-1940. Your grandfather's is more interesting than most post-war instruments in that Vega used some main parts, like the tone ring, which are similar to those found on their more desirable pre-war models (the Tubaphone and Whyte Laydie.) On the plus side, yours is an upper/middle model (there were at least two models higher in this style) and it looks to be in good condition and all original. On the negative side, as I said, there are very few players interested in a banjo like this, so they are very difficult to sell, should I buy it and then decide that I like what I have better. Those that are still playing tenors and plectrums are mostly well into their retirement years and are selling, not buying, instruments. The few (like me) that are not in this group would be looking for older, pre-1940 banjos to play or collect. Mainly, the banjos like yours are found for sale at garage and estate sales as the generation that played them passes on. (There is a third group interested (in a way) in 4-strings-- those are Bluegrass players. They seek pre-1940 four-strings (Gibsons, predominantly) only because they then have them "re-necked" as 5-string banjos that can be used for bluegrass.) The value is contingent on a few things: - Vega changed their construction to a less desirable system that uses two metal rods inside the pot for neck angle adjustment vs. a traditional single wooden dowel stick. The newer banjos are less valuable than the older ones because the single dowel stick is said to provide a more solid neck connection/better sound. - The neck is laminated (each of the "stripes" on the back of the neck are actually plies of wood that run all the way through to the fingerboard) and this helps to keep the neck straight, but we would need to determine if your neck is bowed or not. I'm going to make a video about how to do that one of these days. - The curse of all old stringed instruments is that string tension has been trying to fold them in half for decades. The value is also contingent on whether it needs a dowel-stick reset (similar to a neck reset on a guitar) Resets run about $400. It is often needed, but can only done by an expert (not me! I pay people to do that stuff...) - The case would likely be brown, and having the case is important since this is an odd size banjo. As to value, that is a hard call. It would be difficult to find someone who wants it enough to pay good money for it. I think in a perfect situation, a dealer might ask $1000 for it. It would likely be some time before it sold, if ever. The dealer would take a 25% commission, at least. So you would net $750 eventually in a perfect world. However, this pricing would be AFTER the banjo is restored to its best condition/playability, and YOU would be paying the restoration tab. Both my restoration guys are about $80 per hour. So restoration costs (there are ALWAYS some!!) need to be taken into account, as well as the fact that you and I are not vintage instrument dealers, with a showroom, employees, fancy website, trial periods and guarantees. I can't afford to operate on that level. I buy instruments to restore and play. If I don't bond with them I may try to resell them to finance other restorations and purchases so I do need to be conscious of resale value. My thought is that this one is more interesting than most 4 strings but not worth a great deal, at least to me. Still, once we've determined the neck angle, etc. I would make you an offer. Let me know what you think Eric, or any questions. Thanks again for writing. Cheers -Gil